Awoke to another cold day but with some sunshine peeking through the scudding clouds. Drove off to the bank to exchange my $CAD for $US, at a somewhat better rate than last year! (97cents on the dollar rather than 72!). Yay, the camper started first time!! must have a good battery again.
Oh yes, forgot to mention "the happening" last night. Drove into the parking lot to buy my pizza and parked near a flatbed truck which I realised was being loaded by a forklift with the automated bank teller machine! Not something you see every day (or night) and it occurred to me (after they had driven off), "I wonder if it's being stolen?", "should I perhaps have photographed the truck?". Fortunately it transpired that the bank had organized the machine's replacement and a new one was installed later that same evening!
So, cash hidden in my "secret compartment" (it is a trifle unnerving to travel with ones entire worldly goods all packed inside one 20ft van), I set my GPS and headed off for the border, south of Osoyoos. Got 1/2 km and realised I had no milk for my tea! Ah, there's a Save-On, quick detour and a grocery stock-up and back on the road. Reached the border and then spent the next hour being grilled by US border guards (why do I always get the trainee?). 10 minutes at the booth then I had a sticker slapped on the windshield and was directed to the search area! Two ladies then order me to stop the engine, hand over my keys, keep both hands on the steering wheel, wind down the passenger window...hmmm sorry ma'am but they are electric windows and I need the keys to turn on the ignition to wind the window down. Oh the look I got!! Ordered out of the camper, keeping my hands in view and out of my pockets. "Where's all your money?" "Well ma'am some is hidden inside the camper and some is in my wallet". Then had to direct her colleague as to the exact location in the camper and was then "escorted" (one on either side of me) into the offices. Wow, then ordered to empty all my pockets into this crate, hold all my money, step back from the counter, strip off my jumper, pat down all my pockets whilst the two ladies stood either side, hands on guns!!!
Camper was searched, I was searched, then the grilling continued: "Why do you want to enter the US?", "oh, you're driving to California, What's the address you are going to?", "why don't you have an address there?" Well, you might be exploring the countryside and camping out, but you must have an address! We might need to contact you!" HUH?? Gave them the address of a campground I used last year and then getting the trainee paid off! Got a "thank you for your patience, if you step this way I'll give you a visa" Yipee!! Poor guy next to me nearly had a fit. He and his wife (both in their 70's) had rented out their home in BC for 6 months, arranged a condo rental in Arizona for 4 months and were looking forward to touring the states but had been stopped and searched and their camper (just bought) had been found to have "residue" in one cabinet. That seemed to be the end of their whole trip!! I left him and his wife stroking their old poodle and crossing their fingers that after their (already 3 hour) ordeal the border guards might, just might, relent and allow them to continue on. I wonder....
So, photo taken, finger prints scanned, declaration filled in (twice, as he mucked up the first one trying to imprint it), hand over my $6, passport stamped, green "visa waiver" card stapled in, I'm breathing again and on my way south. Well, actually west first, but only as far as the nearest gas station (about 500 metres). Filled up at $2.97/gall(US), about 2/3 the Canadian price. Then on down US97 to Oroville, Okanogan WA (as opposed to Okanagan BC) and on to Wenatchee. Here I snaked around a bit and decided to try a short route using Stemilt Creek road over the mountain as the GPS reckons its 35km shorter. Well, that one didn't work. After 20 kms of really good hardtop, I ended up on a single lane dirt track! I then chickened out and as it was getting dark, parked up next to the river. There I spent a very peaceful night and was wonderfully warm, although it was quite windy.
Saturday 31 October
Having made a cuppa the next morning the first truck to come down the mountain stopped to chat and a friendly lady (with her two boxer dogs eyeing me up for breakfast) advised me that it was an OK road during the summer, but not to try the route now as the rain had made it deteriorate and she'd been using 4 wheel drive a lot of the way. Having seen the mud adorning her truck, no need to be told twice, I retraced my steps and headed off back through Wenatchee, east along US97 and then south down through Wenatchee National Forest. Actually, mostly UP because I climbed through the Blewitt Pass at 4,102 feet.
Turning south again on US82 at Ellensburgh (having now gone 45km further than the mountain route), bypassed Yakima, then turned off onto US22 toward Toppenish. Gosh, it's getting warm in here! Suddenly realised the sun was out, bright and warm and it was 20 degrees outside!! Stopped in Toppenish to empty tanks at the town site (unfortunately the fresh water pipe was missing!), then filled up again with gas (even cheaper here at $2.85), chatted to a native (trying to sell me his daughter's dream catcher as his gas had been stolen and he needed to drive to Oregon urgently, right) and back on to US97 south over Satus Pass (3,146 ft), and turned west on US14 to Wishram, heading for the Dalles and Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. Quick detour left and down into Wishram itself to see the "Historic Train". Eventually found the train in its own little park after wandering the real tracks and wondering what on earth people did here? Actually, it was an interesting place that had a Halloween feel to it (without dressing up)! And it was totally sheltered from the roaring winds that came up after leaving Wenatchee.It was getting late in the afternoon by now and I decided not to go further west to the scenic area but instead to leave Washington State, turn south again across the impressive steelspan bridge over the (very wide) Columbia river into Oregon, through The Dalles and follow US197 down toward Bend.
I am now in Maupin OR having spent the day battling howling gales, but found temperatures around the 20's, luverly!! Halloween seems to be pretty quiet around here, apart from some howling wolves (teenagers I guess) and a dozen youngsters coming into the restaurant all dressed up and thoroughly enjoying themselves. I'm camped in the town RV park having paid my $24 (and that's the tenting rate the lady kindly offered, the RV rate is $32 ouch, but they do have internet, hydro and water), but boon docking tonight I thought wasn't such a good idea, not knowing quite how the locals acted on Halloween! Actually seems very quiet so needn't have been bothered, but better safe than sorry! Tomorrow, having rejoined US97, onwards to Bend and Crater Lake
National Park I think....
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